Chamonix is located in the Haute Savoie region of the French Alps. The regional cuisine relies heavily on local ingredients such as Reblochon cheese, cured meats, mushrooms, and mountain herbs. However, Chamonix has the unique advantage of being a global ski destination – so the availability of international cuisine is greater than in other French Alpine villages. It is also very close to the Swiss and Italian borders. So, the food scene in Chamonix is a melting pot – or should I say fondue pot – of both local and global flavors.
I recently spent two months in Chamonix – one in summer followed by one in winter. During that time, I was able to thoroughly sample the local fare via restaurants, refuges, and markets. This guide will help you figure out what and where to eat in Chamonix.
What to eat in Chamonix
Fondue Savoyarde
Starting with the most obvious, fondue is a staple in French and Swiss alpine cuisine. Savoyarde fondue in particular is made with a blend of local cheeses, white wine, a hint of garlic, and kirsch brandy. You’ll find it served with cubed baguette, boiled potatoes, cornichon, and sometimes charcuterie. Occasionally you will find versions with local mushrooms or truffles mixed in.
Raclette
If fondue is the King of the French Alps, Raclette is the Queen. It is a special type of semi-soft cow’s milk cheese that has been melted to perfection and draped over a plate of potatoes or bread. It’s often served with cornichon and charcuterie. Sometimes you’ll see a large raclette wheel being heated and scraped directly onto your plate. Other times, the raclette is sliced and melted on individual irons for you to serve yourself. Either way, it’s delicious!
Tartiflette
This is my favorite Savoyarde dish! It’s essentially a creamy, cheesy potato and bacon casserole. It’s traditionally topped with giant strips of melty Reblochon cheese – so each bite is crispy, gooey, and impossibly comforting. You’ll find it at most ski lodges and refuges – or you may instead find its cousin Croziflette, which is the same dish made with buckwheat pasta (called crozets) instead of potatoes.
Croute Savoyarde
This one isn’t quite as common as the previous 3 dishes, but it’s every bit as delicious. It’s an open-faced sandwich made with wine-soaked bread, melty Beaufort cheese, and salty parma ham. It’s broiled until the cheese is bubbling and topped with a fried egg: the ultimate comfort food!
Where to eat in Chamonix
Bakeries
It’s basically illegal to go to France and not go to the boulangerie in the morning. Le Fournil Chamoniard has been my long-time morning staple for everything from a simple baguette to mushroom quiche. I also find that Bakery l’Al’pain has an excellent selection of breads, croissants, and patisserie. If I’m heading to the mountain or out of town, I love to stop at Boulangerie Au Mont Chou for some mini stuffed choux buns (their specialty).
Coffee
One of the things I love most about Chamonix is that I can find great quality coffee – and even cold brew! If you’re an American living in Europe you know just how rare that is. My absolute favorite spot is Moody Coffee Roasters. They make an incredible cappuccino, don’t judge you for asking for your coffee a emporter (to go), and have a delightful selection of baked goods. If you’re like me and try to make your own coffee at home whenever possible, they also sell and grind their ethically-sourced beans in-house.
I also really enjoy Shouka – like Moody, they make great coffee drinks (including to-go drinks, maybe with a bit more of an eye roll), sell delicious pastries, and grind bags of fancy coffee beans in-house. What sets Shouka apart is the sinfully rich chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and the cute shop full of coffee-brewing equipment.
French + Savoyarde
It’s not hard to find Savoyarde food in Chamonix. There are countless restaurants lining the streets, each slinging their version of fondue or raclette. You can also find most traditional dishes on the terraces of the ski resort and in the mid-mountain refuges. And most of the time, they’re good! (How badly can you realistically mess up melted cheese?) However, my personal favorite is Le Monchu. First of all, it has the look – the beautiful wooden interior lined with sheepskin throws and alpine tchotchkes that really puts you in the mood to eat fondue. The menu is a terrific mix of French food, cheese-focused fair, and crowd-pleasing favorites. Also, the dessert menu is massive! This is where I typically send “first timers” because it delivers on the French Alps experience in every way.
Another favorite of mine is Chez Constant. If you’re in the mood for a more intimate restaurant with a bit more flair, this is an excellent choice. It’s got cozy vibes and a Mont Blanc facing terrace for warm days. The menu has many French favorites like escargot, French onion soup, and foie gras, as well as modern spins on local classics like fondue, tartiflette, and croute Savoyarde. I would recommend trying their Chef’s Menu (just 30 euros for a starter, main, and dessert at dinnertime, 23 euros for lunch).
Non-French
I have to be honest, I can’t eat traditional French food every single day. As an American who is used to having every type of cuisine at my fingertips, I crave different flavors (and occasionally spice!) Luckily, Chamonix has plenty of non-French options to keep everyone happy. My all-time favorite place is Cool Cats. It’s a petite artisanal hot-dog stand that whips up gigantic, globally-inspired dogs and fries. My favorite is The Comforter – a local pork sausage piled high with bacon-parmesan mayo, sauerkraut, and grilled onions. They also have vegetarian options, drinks, and sometimes live music!
My other favorite is The Dainty Pizza. Many people say ‘don’t eat pizza in France’ but I like to think that this is the exception – especially since Italy is just on the other side of the Mont Blanc Tunnel! I have tried many of their sourdough pizzas, but my favorite one is the Lemon Squeezy – a simple but delightful pie with fresh courgette, creamy ricotta, and zesty lemon.
I also have a soft spot for Annapurna – a perfectly acceptable Indian restaurant for when the craving hits – and Poco Logo Burger – a tiny fast food joint whipping up all sorts of creative burgers in a funky dive-like setting.
Ice cream
If you’re visiting Chamonix in summer, there is no better feeling than digging into a nice cold ice cream cone after a long mountain trek. In my opinion, the best ice cream can be found at La Mer De Glaces. It has an excellent selection of flavors and they’re all delicious. If venture to Argentière, I would recommend visiting Givré for their mouthwatering selection of both ice creams and sorbets.
Groceries
If you’re staying longer-term in Chamonix or have a rental with a kitchen, you may want to stock up on some groceries! This is always a great idea, since going out to eat can be expensive. If you’re located in downtown Chamonix, I would recommend the Spar Alpina. While somewhat small, it has a decent selection of local products, wine, and basics.
If you’re just looking to acquire some fancy cheese for your après-ski charcuterie board, you can find a beautifully curated selection at Fromagerie Cheese Forever. There are also several local product shops in town – such as Le Refuge Payot – where you can find Savoyarde sausages, cured meats, wine, and accoutrements.
If you have a car and want to do a true grocery stock-up, go to the SuperU in nearby Passy. This is a MASSIVE grocery store with a truly mind-blowing selection of meats, cheeses, produce, and so much more. If you’re a food lover, this place is paradise!
Chamonix also has an outdoor farmer’s market on Saturdays from 7:00 AM to 1:00 PM year-round (although in the summer there are more vendors). This is the absolute best place to buy produce, meat, seafood, and even fresh pasta straight from Italy! My favorite has to be the poulet roti truck, which sells rotisserie chicken with a side of potatoes and a giant scoop of chicken drippings. YUM!
Are you hungry yet? I certainly am. If you haven’t worked up an appetite, check out my Chamonix Hiking Guide or Skiing Guide and come back when you’re ready.
